Petehs



(No Model.)

- L. E". de WA-RU. Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.

No. 228,007. Patented 'May 25, I880.

ATTESTZ INVENTOR:

CMMMQMU ILPEI'ERS, PHOTO LIYHOGFIAPHEE WASHINGTON. D. G.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LAURENS E. DE WARU, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.-

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 228,007, dated May 25, 1880,

Application filed April 15, 1880. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, LAURENS E. DE WARU, a citizen of France, residing at New York, in the county and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, which improvements are fully set forth in the following specification and accompanying drawings, in which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures.

My invention consists in a new manner of connecting the two quarters or other parts to be united by means of a strip of leather or other suitable material, upon which the said quarters are sewed in such a manner as to do away with the objectionable stiffness found in the different seams now in use, wherein the edges of the quarters are either united together or allowed to remain free under the stay-piece. In this latter case they will frequently overlap each other, thereby still increasing the stiffness alluded to. The action of the foot upon a back-stay thus stiffened by the unnecessary waste stock comprised underneath said stay, between the stay seams, causes the leather to break, no matter how strong the seams proper may be made.

It may also be remarked that the narrower the back-stay is the greater will be the objection I have just mentioned, and manufacturers prefer to use a narrow back-stay because it improves the appearance of the shoe.

Another serious objection to the seam in which the edges of the quarters are left free under the back-stay consists in the difficulty in feeding the work under the presser-foot of the sewing-machine when forming the two last scams or stay-seams. The edges of the quar ters, where they happen to overlap each other, will frequently cause the work to slide aside or the needle to break, in which case the work, when completed, will present a rough appearance.

To obviate the several objections I have referred to is the object of this invention, and I obtain this result by the following method.

In the accompanying drawings, A and A represent the'quarters or pieces to be connected. B represents the connectingstrip.

a and a show the first stitching operation or closing-seams, while the second stitching process or stay-seams is illustrated at a and a in Figs. 2 and 3. Sectional views of the invention are shown in Figures 1 and 2. Fig. 3 is an elevation.

When applying the seam to the back of a boot or shoe I first stitch the edge of each quarter A and A upon the connecting-strip B, and at a certain distance from the edges of said connecting-strip, as shown in Fig. 1. The seams are now rubbed down, which operation will cause the edges of the quarters to fold themselves upon the connecting-strip B, the projecting edges of which extend now outwardly under the original or closing seams, so

as to form a stay for said closing-seams. The operation is completed by putting on the stayseams a and a on the outside of the closingseams to and a, as shown in Figs. 2 andl 3.

It will he observed that the connecting-strip B will naturally, when the seam is completed, form an outward ridgein its center, as shown in Fig. 2. This ridge is of great advantage in protecting the stitches of the seams c and c from the wear of the dress, while the two other seams a and a, being blind stitched, are fully protected from wear.

The seam produced according to this new method can be applied to the lightest stock or serge as well as to heavy grades of leather. It leaves a smooth surface in the inside of the shoe, and in points of neatness, elasticity, and durability, it is unequaled by any of the seams now in use.

'I do not claim that there is any novelty in sewing the edge ofa piece of leather at a certain distance from the edge of a second piece, the projecting edge of which will form a stay for the original closing -seam. Such seams have been used in various ways for many years, and have been found by experience the strongest searns made; but

WVhat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

In a boot or shoe, the quarters A and A, secured in position by an intermediate backstay piece, having its free edges left upon the inside of the shoe and secured in place by stitching, in the manner shown and described.

LAUREN S E. DE WARU. Witnesses: V

G110. T. SMALLWOOD, Jr., WALTER ALLEN. 

